Karachi hardly a tourist destination, but a must-see for anyone interested in why cities thrive

Abdullah719

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While Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan is visiting my country, I have been enjoying his. Khan’s trip is diplomatic and includes meetings with President Donald Trump and at the United Nations; mine was to attend a business conference in Karachi and, more to the point, satisfy my curiosity about the world’s fifth-most-populous nation. 1

I came away optimistic, but not for the reasons I was expecting. Karachi has world-class food, a lively music scene, and some of the warmest hospitality I’ve encountered in any large city. But it cannot compete as a tourist destination until it cleans up its act, quite literally speaking.

Pakistan’s urban infrastructure is worse than I had imagined. It raises the question: Which is easier, making a city cleaner or safer?

The downside of Karachi is evident immediately upon leaving the airport: It has perhaps the worst sanitation problems I have seen in any city, and I have visited some leading contenders for the title. Piles of garbage and crumbling concrete blocks seem to be the two iconic sights of the city. The beaches on the Arabian Sea are unswimmable and often ugly.

Most recently, the city has been beset by a plague of flies — a “bullying force,” says the New York Times, “sparing no one.” The swarm of flies, which I was fortunate enough to miss, was the result of monsoon season, malfunctioning drainage systems clogged with solid waste, and slaughtered animals from the Muslim celebration of Eid. (The same monsoon season, by the way, led to power blackouts of up to 60 hours.) On a livability index, Karachi ranks near the bottom, just ahead of Damascus, Lagos, Dhaka and Tripoli.

There is no subway, and a typical street scene blends cars, auto-rickshaws, motorbikes and the occasional donkey pulling a cart. It’s fun for the visitor, but I wouldn’t call transportation easy.

And yet to see only those negatives is to miss the point. Markets speak more loudly than anecdotes, and the population of Karachi continues to rise — a mark of the city’s success. This market test is more important than the aesthetic test, and Karachi unambiguously passes it.

Pakistanis have been pouring into Karachi for decades, mostly for greater opportunity. After the partition of British India and the creation of an independent Pakistan in the late 1940s, Karachi was still a backwater. These days it is by far Pakistan’s largest city, with an estimated population of about 20 million and growing. It may soon end up as the world’s third-most-populous city, with 30% growth projected through 2030. The city accounts for more than half of Pakistan’s federal tax revenue.

One of my biggest takeaways from five whirlwind days in Karachi is that “urban agglomeration externalities” — the economist’s fancy term for the benefits of living in a city — are larger than I had thought. Urbanization improves human lives more than its aesthetics would indicate. Unfortunately, this same logic helps explain why it is so hard to fix malfunctioning megacities such as Karachi: Improving them encourages more people to come, and overcrowding will make some of the core problems worse.

Around town the visitor sees signs describing Karachi, one of which reads “Karachi: The Place to Be.” That is the bottom line, no matter how improbable it might seem on arrival. I also saw “Karachi: Epitome of Resilience” and “Karachi: Pakistan in Miniature,” both of which are appropriate — and slightly double-edged.

Karachi feels like a city without a clearly defined past, or at least not one that has carried over into the present. In the 1950s it was known as the “Paris of the East,” but that impression has not aged well. In 1941, before partition, the city’s population was about 51% Hindu. Now it is virtually 0% Hindu, obliterating yet another feature of the city’s history. It is currently a mix of Pakistani ethnicities, including Sindhis (the home province), Punjabis, Pashtuns, the Baloch and many more — indeed, Pakistan in miniature.

In addition to the benefits of urbanization, the generally peaceful nature of the city made a big impression on me. I was told by many people that Karachi was a kind of war zone, and that was to some extent true in the 1990s. The city was overwhelmed by money from trade in drugs and armaments, and the rapid arrival of so many newcomers.

But remarkable progress has been made in the last half decade or so, a testament to the city’s dynamism and ingenuity. According to one crime index, Karachi is now less dangerous than Houston, New Delhi or Sao Paulo. Maybe you don’t trust the data, but my casual impressions walking around are consistent with those rankings. It’s not Tokyo or Zurich, but if you have traveled widely and are thinking you might want to come, do not let fear of crime put you off. (Plus, you always can escape to the country’s idyllic north.)

Concrete measures of particular crimes show similar progress. There were 965 targeted killings in 2013, but by 2018 there were only 51. Incidents of kidnapping were 174 in 2013, and 13 in 2018. If nothing else, Karachi has shown it can make huge progress on at least one of its major problems.

What other problems might be next? What about the economy, in Karachi and Pakistan as a whole?

The immediate news is not great. A recent IMF forecast predicted a growth rate of 2.4% for the next fiscal year, down from an earlier range of 4% to 6%. In a part of the world where Bangladesh often has achieved growth rates of 8% or higher, that just isn’t good enough.

Still, that number is not the right way to understand the growth potential of Pakistan. For centuries, the region (now a country, of course) has been no poorer than most of the rest of historic India, and arguably for a long period of time it was somewhat wealthier. So Pakistan is not doomed by its culture. It simply needs more of a single-minded focus on economic growth.

I spoke to numerous involved persons about the venture capital and startup scene in Pakistan, and their impressions were mixed. But at least there is a scene to disagree about. “Reminds me of Indonesia about 10 years ago” was one informed response I heard. Is that good or bad news? Either way, it’s something to build on.

One of my frustrations with the policy dialogue I heard in Karachi was how much of it centers on India and what Pakistan should do to counter its geopolitical influence. This discussion strikes me as premature; in order to have more clout internationally, Pakistan first needs to get much wealthier. In the meantime, the country should make domestic policy more of a priority.

The best economic news for Pakistan is simply that there is a lot to be gained from instituting various relatively straightforward improvements, starting of course in Karachi but hardly ending there.

One set of big but (mostly) fixable problems involves public health. Dengue is a new scourge, and Karachi has the usual ailments of a poor megacity, such as malaria, typhoid, chikungunya virus and respiratory disorders. Some 26% of the country suffers from diabetes. Education could also stand a great deal of improvement, even if there is no simple, quick fix.

Most of all, I am impressed by the tenacity of Pakistan. Before going there, I was very familiar with the cliched claim that Pakistan is a fragile tinderbox, barely a proper country, liable to fall apart any moment and collapse into civil war. Neither my visit nor my more focused reading has provided any support for that view, and perhaps it is time to retire it. Pakistan’s national identity may be strongly contested but it is pretty secure, backed by the growing use of Urdu as a national language — and cricket to boot. It has come through the Afghan wars battered but intact.

Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge are scheduled to visit Pakistan next month. As a recent visitor, I highly recommend that they spend some proper time in Karachi — and hope that many more will follow in their footsteps.

Tyler Cowen is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist. He is a professor of economics at George Mason University and writes for the blog Marginal Revolution. His books include “The Complacent Class: The Self-Defeating Quest for the American Dream.”

https://www.bloomberg.com/opinion/a...-where-pakistan-s-tenacity-is-on-full-display
 
Very good read and well balanced. Let’s hope they can sort out the sanitation/garbage problems. The potential is there and in sha Allah Karachi will become «The Paris of east» again.
 
One of my frustrations with the policy dialogue I heard in Karachi was how much of it centers on India and what Pakistan should do to counter its geopolitical influence.

The contrast with India is interesting. In my conversations with other Indians, Pakistan rarely even comes up, mostly when there is a terrorist attack or maybe a cricket game between the two countries.
 
The contrast with India is interesting. In my conversations with other Indians, Pakistan rarely even comes up, mostly when there is a terrorist attack or maybe a cricket game between the two countries.

In my conversations with Indians, Pakistan is always the topic! In fact some of the indians also complain that they are sick of discussing Pakistan.
 
The contrast with India is interesting. In my conversations with other Indians, Pakistan rarely even comes up, mostly when there is a terrorist attack or maybe a cricket game between the two countries.

my experience with Indians is totally the opposite to be honest.

I am sometimes baffled as to how a country six times the size spends so much time on Pakistan
 
The contrast with India is interesting. In my conversations with other Indians, Pakistan rarely even comes up, mostly when there is a terrorist attack or maybe a cricket game between the two countries.

I evesdrop on Indians at my workplace always talking about Pakistan with my white coworkers. Seriously bro you guys need to find a way to overcome your Pakistan obession. Go on google and type Imran Khan or Pakistan and all you see are Indian articles, even Pakistanis dont obesses about Pakistan the way Indians do.
 
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my experience with Indians is totally the opposite to be honest.

I am sometimes baffled as to how a country six times the size spends so much time on Pakistan

Pakistan is the boogeyman for India these days.
 
I want to visit Karachi but I dont know anyone there and my family in Pakistan has stereotypes about Karachi not being safe but I know it's not the case.
 
The contrast with India is interesting. In my conversations with other Indians, Pakistan rarely even comes up, mostly when there is a terrorist attack or maybe a cricket game between the two countries.

My experience is complete opposite. During my university years, at work, online, and social media, I see nothing but complete obsession with Pakistan. This is when I am not even involved in the conversation. It's usually discussion amongst themselves or they start mentioning Pakistan out of nowhere in an unrelated discussion.
 
In my conversations with Indians, Pakistan is always the topic! In fact some of the indians also complain that they are sick of discussing Pakistan.

my experience with Indians is totally the opposite to be honest.

I am sometimes baffled as to how a country six times the size spends so much time on Pakistan

Possibly they discuss Pakistan more with people with connections to Pakistan. In my Whatsapps high school and college groups, there are about fifty messages posted every day and I can't remember the last one about Pakistan or even Kashmir. There were a few posted when 370 was abrogated, but certainly none the last week. And these are people mainly from Delhi.

Pakistan figures a bit more in the consciousness of people in the border states of Punjab, Rajasthan, Gujarat etc. The rest of the country could care less unless soldiers die in an attack.
 
I evesdrop on Indians at my workplace always talking about Pakistan with my white coworkers. Seriously bro you guys need to find a way to overcome your Pakistan obession. Go on google and type Imran Khan or Pakistan and all you see are Indian articles, even Pakistanis dont obesses about Pakistan the way Indians do.

A co-worker who eavesdrops on others is out of the norm, and so apparently are the Indians you work with.

I never talk about Pakistan with my white, black or Asian co-workers unless specifically asked. Saying something hostile is an easy way to ruin people's impression of you. As mother said "if you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all".
 
I believe everyone’s mother told not to make up things to satisfy your personal ego either. Lol

Indians not talking about Pakistani when 50k + Indians showed up in Houston to listen to RSS inspired PM of India to talk about Pakistan.

Obsession is chronically contagious among Indians.
 
I believe everyone’s mother told not to make up things to satisfy your personal ego either. Lol

Indians not talking about Pakistani when 50k + Indians showed up in Houston to listen to RSS inspired PM of India to talk about Pakistan.

Obsession is chronically contagious among Indians.

Not to forget the entire election campaign of chaiwala was centered around Pakistan.
 
I believe everyone’s mother told not to make up things to satisfy your personal ego either. Lol

Even if I wanted to waste my life, lying on internet forums would still not be my choice.

Indians not talking about Pakistani when 50k + Indians showed up in Houston to listen to RSS inspired PM of India to talk about Pakistan.

Obsession is chronically contagious among Indians.

Currently Kashmir and Pakistan has been thrust into the news following the abrogation of 370 and IK's repeated references to a nuclear war. It doesn't mean Indians in more usual times discuss Pakistan among themselves, what would we say about Pakistan anyway?
 
It doesn't mean Indians in more usual times discuss Pakistan among themselves, what would we say about Pakistan anyway?

They discuss each and every internal issue of Pakistan that one can imagine, even issues that Pakistanis don't think about or consider major issues. A lot of times it is making puns.
 
They discuss each and every internal issue of Pakistan that one can imagine, even issues that Pakistanis don't think about or consider major issues. A lot of times it is making puns.

I think most Indians, even the educated ones do not have a whole lot of knowledge about Pakistan. They can name the PM, and a few cricket players but beyond that no one else. I think when PPP was in power, most Indians (including me) wouldn't have been able to name the PM. NS and IK have been more visible.

There is a general feeling that Pakistan is hostile to India, but not a whole lot of knowledge beyond that.

From my memory of my school days (admittedly a long time ago), I do not remember much mention of Pakistan. I did look up sources on the internet for the search "indian history textbooks pakistan" and found this:

https://www.scoopwhoop.com/difference-indian-pakistani-school-textbooks/

Certainly the ideas that there were no massacres of Hindus and Sikhs in Western Punjab during Partition and that "India was on the point of being defeated [1965 War] she requested the UN to arrange a ceasefire" are false.

It does appear that the Indian textbooks are more secular and accurate, though the website is Indian so objectivity is not guaranteed. I do very clearly remember that no religion was slandered in our textbooks.
 
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Irony just had a cardiac arrest when an Indian claimed that Pakistan is ever hardly a subject of conversation for him, even though he has been a regular on a PAKISTANI forum for years posting nearly everyday.


Just see the number of Indian posters on here and other Pakistani forums, news websites and YouTube channels. Then contrast that with the amount of Pakistani members on Indian forums etc, and you will know who is obsessed with whom.

Heck India was barely even mentioned in Pak elections of 2018, meanwhile chaiwala ran his entire election campaign on Pakistan.



Also you will never hear a Pakistani say to another Pakistani "go to India" just because they don't agree with him/her. However, the reverse is a common occurrence in the hell hole next door.
 
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Irony just had a cardiac arrest when an Indian claimed that Pakistan is ever hardly a subject of conversation for him, even though he has been a regular on a PAKISTANI forum for years posting nearly everyday.

It doesn't follow that whatever I post to this forum (and I post less as time goes by) also figures in conversations I have with other Indians not on this forum. They do not have the same interest in Pakistan as I do.
 
They discuss each and every internal issue of Pakistan that one can imagine, even issues that Pakistanis don't think about or consider major issues. A lot of times it is making puns.

Off course they do.

Mostly hate emitting for Pakistan and Kashmir Muslims from every orifices of theirs.
 
Irony just had a cardiac arrest when an Indian claimed that Pakistan is ever hardly a subject of conversation for him, even though he has been a regular on a PAKISTANI forum for years posting nearly everyday.


Just see the number of Indian posters on here and other Pakistani forums, news websites and YouTube channels. Then contrast that with the amount of Pakistani members on Indian forums etc, and you will know who is obsessed with whom.

Heck India was barely even mentioned in Pak elections of 2018, meanwhile chaiwala ran his entire election campaign on Pakistan.



Also you will never hear a Pakistani say to another Pakistani "go to India" just because they don't agree with him/her. However, the reverse is a common occurrence in the hell hole next door.

Spot on. Everytime they said Pakistan means nothing is hilarious. Their online existence is mostly on Pakistani portals talking smack about Pakistan.
 
Guys let's stick to caring about our city - Karachi.

It is rather surprising that despite such major flaws in infrastructure/education system/sanitation it is still Pakistan's powerhouse, financially and industrially, despite Lahore being better at almost all of the above. Just goes to show the collective resilience and determination of Karachi and its residents in contributing massively to the economy.
 
KARACHI: Intervention from the highest level of the establishment over the issue of Karachi has yielded positive results as the city’s three stakeholders — Pakistan Peoples Party, Pakistan Tehreek-i-Insaf and Muttahida Qaumi Movement-Pakistan — have agreed to take joint measures for the betterment of the country’s commercial capital.

Sources said a senior member of the security establishment flew to Karachi on Saturday to have all the three stakeholders sit together so that they could mutually find a solution to Karachi’s problem that has been troubling the top military leadership for quite some time.

Only those members of the three parties who have administrative positions either in the provincial, federal or local government were invited to the deliberations held at Governor House on Saturday night with a single point agenda of bringing improvement to Karachi’s infrastructure.

On Sunday, Sindh government’s spokesperson and chief minister’s law adviser Murtaza Wahab told the media that a six-member committee to be headed by CM Murad Ali Shah and comprising Sindh ministers Nasir Shah and Saeed Ghani of PPP, federal ministers Asad Umar and Ali Zaidi of the PTI and Aminul Haque of the MQM-P was being set up to look into the issues of Sindh, including Karachi.

The committee would be notified after finalising its name, terms of reference and other details.

In a late-night development on Sunday, Nasir Shah clarified that the meeting between CM Shah and federal Minister for Development Asad Umar had discussed only bottlenecks to carry out development works and “as far as formation of a committee for execution of uplift works is concerned no such decision was taken at the meeting”.

“Development of the city is the responsibility of the provincial government which it is doing to its best,” he said in a statement.

Nasir Shah said the Sindh chief minister along with the cabinet members concerned held a meeting with Mr Umar and his team to work out ways and means to remove the bottlenecks. He said the meeting also discussed some other issues such as removal of sludge and encroachment from storm-water drains, dumping of sludge at landfill sites, completion of schemes.

The statement said the meeting was also attended by NDMA chairman Lt Gen Muhammad Afzal, Karachi Mayor Wasim Akhtar and others.

The sources said the establishment also took on board some other political parties considered to be having stakes in Karachi. However, the parties apparently left out from the process, particularly the Grand Democratic Alliance (GDA) and Jamiat Ulema-i-Islam-Fazl (JUI-F), strongly criticised the move and rejected it.

The sources said that Saturday’s meeting was the second of its kind as less than a week ago key representatives belonging to the provincial and city administration as well as political parties were called to Islamabad to discuss options on Karachi. Initially, they said, the PPP was reluctant to share power with other parties, but the establishment persuaded the ruling party in Sindh to agree to the arrangement.

Only on Saturday, PPP co-chairperson and former president Asif Ali Zardari had stopped his party from staging a show of strength before his appearance in a Rawalpindi accountability court on Monday (today).

A federal government source, however, said that sharing a joint platform would not mean that political differences between the parties had evaporated.

“This is not an alliance, but it will end rumours being spread deliberately that the federal government was going to take over Karachi or impose a governor rule in the province. Also, we believe the PPP will share powers since the establishment as well as the Supreme Court are watching them,” he said.

When asked what his party would gain, especially at a time when the elected local government set-up is completing its four-year term later this month, a senior MQM-P leader said it had been decided that the administrators would run the Karachi Metropolitan Corporation and other LGs would be appointed in consultation with all stakeholders. He said political personalities as well as “honest” bureaucrats would replace elected mayors and district chairmen upon expiry of their term.

Commenting on Saturday’s meeting, MQM-P convener Dr Khalid Maqbool Siddiqui said a working committee, and not a special committee, comprising stakeholders had been formed and its mandate was restricted to cleanliness in Karachi.

The federation considered it important to play its role after the recent rains and, therefore, it had activated the National Disaster Management Authority (NDMA) and the army, he added. He said that after the expiry of term of elected local government, the government should appoint a resident of Karachi as administrator.

In a video statement released on Sunday night, Sindh Information Minister Nasir Shah, who was one of the participants of Saturday’s meeting, welcomed the resolve expressed by the PPP, PTI and MQM-P for the metropolis and said the alliance would be a milestone in the development of Karachi.

“The Sindh government will welcome any party or individual who wants to play a role in the progress of Karachi,” he added.

PTI’s Karachi division president Khurram Sher Zaman said the advisory committee was in the interest of the people of Karachi and the Sindh government got a chance to change the city’s situation in consultation with all stakeholders. He said Prime Minister Imran Khan was serious for Karachi and his government reserved the right to use its options.

However, there are naysayers too.

In a statement issued on Sunday, the GDA, which is one of the coalition partners of the PTI at the Centre, criticised the “nexus between the PPP’s provincial government and mayor of Karachi” and termed it a first step towards starting a confrontation with the Supreme Court.

It, however, totally neglected the fact that the PTI is very much part of the same “nexus”.

The JUI-F, however, reacted in favour of PPP as the party in a statement said that handing over Karachi to a committee in the presence of the provincial government was an attack on the autonomy and integrity of Sindh.

“We believe this is a step forward to implement a plot to separate Karachi from Sindh,” said party leader Rashid Mehmood Soomro. “The PPP government in Sindh has failed to maintain its writ and under duress it has signed the agreement to sell Karachi.”

He said his party would announce its future course of action after consulting all political, religious and nationalist parties of Sindh.

The latest development comes against the backdrop of recent spells of monsoon rains that played havoc on the city’s fragile infrastructure, forcing the federal government to send the army-led NDMA to help the Sindh government in cleaning of storm-water drains.

Later, a Supreme Court bench headed by Chief Justice Gulzar Ahmed, while hearing a case in Karachi, lashed out at the Sindh and local governments for the city’s worsening situation and their failure to provide basic facilities to the citizens.

On Aug 13, the same bench had completely handed over the task of cleaning drains to the NDMA, asking it to remove all encroachments within three months. The court also hinted at giving the NDMA more tasks related to Karachi in future.

At the same hearing, Attorney General Khalid Jawed Khan informed the bench that the federal government had no intention to interfere in the affairs of the Sindh government but keeping in view the worsening situation in Karachi, the federal government was considering available constitutional and legal options in order to fix the issues.

https://www.dawn.com/news/1574863/ppp-mqm-pti-to-work-for-karachi-uplift-after-prodding
 
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